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I'm Joel Palmer - proprietor and
head chef of the Crown
Inn in Linton. I learnt how to cook in
some very good restaurants - including the Cricketers
at Clavering and the RAC club in London. Over the
years I have built up a collection of favourite recipes
which I am sharing with readers of the Linton News
through my monthly column.
You'll find all the published recipes on this page
- they are listed below. There are links to easily
printable versions should you wish to try them out
in the kitchen.
I would love to hear from you to find out whether
you enjoyed them - and if you have any suggestions
or requests! You can e-mail me at
joel@crownatlinton.co.uk.
Happy cooking!
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January
2007 - Lancashire Hot Pot
IT came to my attention when attending Smithfield and Billingsgate
markets with my pal ‘Pete the meat’, how truly
passionate are the people there. They live and breathe the
freshest and highest quality produce that money can buy.
Their energy is completely unrivalled and their language a
tad colourful, but the work is all happening while most folks
are tucked up in bed.
During these visits to the markets, I was struck that we are
all being led down the supermarket path where you can buy
just about anything no matter the time of year. Where have
all our seasons gone? We are surrounded by the sea and have
some of the best grazing land you could hope for with a thriving
arable yield to match.
So over the 12 months of the year I will be offering recipes
for you to try at home. It’s all about simple, traditional
seasonal and local food, and whenever possible, fairly priced.
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Lancashire
Hot Pot is a classic British dish using the cheaper
cuts of lamb, it would have been mutton for the Lancashire
mill and pit workers. Some oysters or kidneys would
have been added for extra richness by those who could
afford such luxuries.
This dish should only take about half-an-hour to prepare
and three to three-and-a-half hours to cook to perfection.
Ingredients: (serves 4)
4 lamb neck fillets
800g large white potatoes peeled and thinly sliced
700g thinly sliced onions
150ml red wine
150ml beef stock
50g melted salted butter
Sprig of fresh rosemary from the garden
Salt and pepper to season
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Method:
Using a thick-bottomed casserole pot, heat it on the stove
top and sear the seasoned lamb cuts with a little of the
butter.
Remove the lamb and add the onions to the meat juices and
caramelise. Add the red wine and reduce the liquid by three
quarters. Remove the softened onions and liquor. Replace
the lamb into the pot.
Spread the onion mix over the lamb, cover with the stock
and season with the salt and pepper. In a decorative way,
lay the potatoes over the lamb. Push down with your hand
so the stock moistens the potatoes. With a pastry brush,
paint the potatoes with the melted butter; this will give
a nice golden finish. Place a lid on the pot. Put into the
middle of a pre-heated oven at 180 degrees (Gas Mark 4)
for about three to three-and-a-half hours. A knife should
slide through the food to the bottom of the casserole with
no resistance.
This dish should be served with braised red cabbage and
glazed carrots. The cooking times are ideal to enable you
to
prepare the dish then pop down to your local pub for a chat
with your friends.
Click here for printable version.
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February
2007 - Braised Oxtail in Red Wine
So the winter is upon us. The January sales have all but
been and gone – however, we know the sales are all-year
round, don’t we? The festive season is well and truly
over. Oh God, how do we pull through it? If you haven’t
quit smoking or taken to the fitness suite at the college,
you may as well indulge in another classic dish, which uses
the slow cooking process.
This particular dish will mean a trip to your favourite
local butcher to buy the cuts of meat required. Our beef
today is some of the best in the world, having come out
of the BSE scares of yesteryear with animal welfare a major
priority of all those who handle the cattle.
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Preparation time
10 minutes the night before, 30 minutes on the day of cooking.
Cooking time approx. 4 hours
Ingredients: (serves 4)
3 whole oxtails (ask your butcher to trim the fat from the
tails)
225g medium sized red onion, chopped
200g stalks of celery, chopped
200g leeks chopped with 1 clove of garlic
100g beef dripping
400g tomatoes, chopped
A sprig of fresh thyme
1 bay leaf and a good tablespoon of chopped parsley
600ml red wine
1000ml good beef stock
Method:
1. The night before the dish is to be cooked, separate the
tails by cutting through the digits (only use the thick
ends of the tail as the thin ends can be frozen for the
day you want a homemade oxtail soup).
2. Marinade the pieces of tail in the red wine and some
of the stock to cover it all. Cover with cling film and
leave in a fridge overnight.
3.The next day pre-heat your oven to 200C.
4. Remove the tails from the marinade and season well with
freshly ground black pepper.
5. In a large pan, fry the tails in the dripping on both
sides until golden brown, then drain.
6. Fry all the vegetables in the same pan with the tail
residue until soft.
7. Add the tomatoes and the herbs and cook at a simmer.
8. Replace the tails and the rest of the stock and cover
with a lid, braise for three hours.
9. Remove the tails from the sauce and rest to one side.
Pass the sauce through a sieve into a separate pan to keep
warm.
10. In the original pan reduce the marinade down to about
a pint then add it to the sauce.
11. Remove any residual fat from the surface by skimming,
and test for flavour and consistency.
12. Replace the tails and simmer gently (when the meat is
falling away from the bone, it’s ready to serve).
A serving suggestion would be to place two tail pieces on
each plate with some of the sauce, some crushed buttered
potatoes and roasted root vegetables.
Click here for printable version.
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March
2007 - Seared Sea Bass Fillets With Anise Butter
WHEN I was a small lad kicking a football around the streets
of Bishops Stortford, I always knew that if it was Friday
it would be fish. Fantastic. However, these days I feel
that the thought of fish can seem a little daunting. Is
it because it’s very easy to get wrong? Turn your back for
one minute and it’s overcooked? (Is the smell a little off-putting?)
When going to Billingsgate I know what to look for and where
to find it, but if you go to Cambridge, Saffron Walden or
Haverhill markets they all boast a fantastic fishmonger,
once a prominent feature of the old High Streets. Look and
admire the selection they have to offer and the enthusiasm
they have.
The secret of buying fish is selecting a whole fish rather
than a cut or steak. This gives you the opportunity to look
at the fish; basic tips to ensure a good quality fish are:
are the eyes bright and not sunken? are the gills bright
red? (if not, the fish is not fresh); make sure the fish
is not slimy; and a fish shouldn’t smell fishy – bizarre
I know, but if it does it’s old. Ask your fishmonger for
its provenance or origin as I find it helps to give an understanding
of fish in general.
We all know that fish stocks are dwindling but we are learning
how to rear some types of fish in harmony with our environment,
which brings me on to sea bass.
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Sea Bass is at
its best in the spring months, and line-caught off the west
coast will be the best; however it does come at a
cost. So, if you can, get your fishmonger to fillet and
pin bone two sea bass weighing in at about 700g each, which
have come from a farm.
This dish should only take 5-7 minutes to cook through.
Very quick and very simple with all the ingredients complementing
one another.
Ingredients: (serves four)
2 fresh sea bass, filleted and pin boned
Half tsp shallot purée
100 grams unsalted butter
100 mls Ricard or Pernod
Half tsp caraway seeds
Olive oil, salt and pepper
12 poached asparagus spears
12 roasted cherry tomatoes
Method:
1. In a heavy-bottomed sauté pan, heat the butter
with a little olive oil
2. Place the fillets in the butter, skin side down for about
three minutes
3. Turn the fillets (be very careful) onto the flesh side
for a further three minutes
4. Remove the fish and keep warm
5. Add the asparagus to the butter and heat through
6. Present the fillets to the centre of a dinner plate with
the asparagus tips
7. Add the shallot purée to the butter and cook for
one minute
8. Add the Ricard. Be very careful as it is very flammable
9. Burn off the alcohol and add the caraway seeds
10. Place the roasted tomatoes on the plate
11. Pour the butter sauce over the fillets and serve
A top tip when cooking fish like this would be to keep the
pan moving in a circular motion when the fillets go in.
This will prevent the fish from sticking. This could be
served with crushed Jersey Royal potatoes. Enjoy.
Click here for printable version.
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May
2007 - Baby spinach and ricotta filo tart on rocket salad
and roasted sweet fruit
UNTIL quite recently in restaurants around the world, vegetarians
have been largely ignored, if not completely forgotten,
leaving it up to the poor veggies to have to ask for themselves.
This is now the perfect time of year to sample some fantastic
foods from the markets or supermarkets. Spring greens, curly
kale, asparagus, baby spinach, the list is endless. These
days I’m finding that more and more people are conscious
of all the
different food scares and healthy living issues arising
from the various media engines. A vegetarian diet is known
to confer a wide range of health benefits. Research also
shows vegetarians suffer less heart disease, diabetes and
various cancers to mention just a few.
The 1st of October of every year is world veggie day, so
we’ve got five months to think about maybe making
the next dish
featured on chefs corner.
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Ingredients:
The tart:
2 large handfuls of baby spinach
200g pot of ricotta cheese (drained of its water)
1 crushed clove of garlic
Cracked pepper and coarse salt (to taste)
1 small egg
1 bunch of basil
The glaze:
Fresh ground nutmeg (1 pinch)
1 pkt of ready made filo pastry (there are some things we
simply have to cheat with!)
100g of melted butter
The rocket salad:
1 bunch of good peppery rocket
1 pre- roasted red pepper
5 roasted baby tomatoes
Fresh parmesan shavings
Virgin olive oil
Balsamic vinegar
1. Coat inside of ring mould or quiche ring approx 9-10cm
diameter with butter.
2. Using two pages of the pastry, gently push into the ring,
leaving rough edges protruding. Cover and refrigerate.
3. Cover bottom of small pan with water and steam spinach
until soft. This will take only seconds.
4. The spinach must be cooled very quickly with ice; this
will help keep its vibrant green colour.
5. With a blender, whizz the ricotta cheese and cooled spinach
until soft. Add the egg and whizz again. Add all the other
herbs and seasonings, ensuring all ingredients are bound
together.
6. With a spoon, push the mixture into the pastry case taking
care not to break the protruding pastry. Paint the pastry
with a little butter.
7. Place the tart into a preheated oven at 190C (Gas mark
5) for about 15-20 minutes. Meanwhile, the salad can be
rolled in a bowl using all the ingredients except the balsamic
vinegar glaze.
8. Place the salad in a neat pile on a plate to one side.
9. When your tart is just beginning to brown, it can be
removed from the ring and served alongside your salad. Finish
with parmesan shavings and a drizzle of the balsamic glaze.
A really cold crisp Chardonnay will be delicious with this
dish to go with the green earthy taste of the spinach and
to cut through the creamy cheese.
Click here for printable version.
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June
2007 - Enjoy Your Barbecue
AHHHH, the hypnotic smell of the summer barbecue. In every
street, in every town on a warm Sunday afternoon, you can
always track down the aroma of sizzling sausages and the
unmistakeable sight of smoke coming from burning chicken
pieces.
Is there still the stereotypical man in a plastic apron
printed as a naked lady standing in a cloud of smoke with
a tin of beer in one hand and a pair of tongs in the other?
I wonder if he pre-cooked the chicken as advised? I wonder
if the coals were sectioned into a cool zone as well as
a hot one? Probably, as I think we are all slowly morphing
into Aussie barbecue gurus.
As with any successful dinner party, it’s important not
to be slaving over a hot barbecue when your guests arrive.
So here are a few great ideas that can mostly be pre-prepared
to give you more time with your guests. Rather than putting
in one single recipe this month, I thought several ideas
with rough guidelines would be better. |
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Make some interesting
salads in the morning to save time later.
Creole mint cabbage salad
Very finely sliced white cabbage with thin batons of celery,
finely sliced green pepper, a couple of teaspoons of mint
sauce with a pinch or two of sugar. If you like a kick add
some Tabasco and cayenne. All mixed together in a bowl,
covered and in the fridge. Easy.
Roasted vegetable and blue cheese pasta salad
This can be vegetables of your choice but Mediterranean
veggies are best. Sweet pepper, aubergine, courgette, red
onion, tomato and garlic, all chopped and mixed with some
olive oil, then roasted in a hot oven for 15 minutes. Allow
to cool, and mix in a bowl with cooked pasta (penne is good)
blue Stilton, salt and pepper and a tablespoon of mayonnaise.
Put plenty of freshly chopped parsley on the top. Another
salad sorted!
Tomato and mozzarella salad with avocado
Use the best plum tomatoes you can find. English are fantastic
from June to September. Slice them and arrange them on a
large plate. Along the centre of the salad arrange slices
of fresh buffalo mozzarella with torn basil. Peel and dice
the avocado then roll it in a separate small bowl with lemon
juice, then cover. At serving time you can place the avocado
on the salad with some good olive oil.
A couple of meaty ideas
If you’re using wooden skewers soak them in water over night.
This will stop them from burning.
Marinade some chicken breast meat in sweet chilli sauce.
Add to your skewer with some cherry tomatoes and lime wedges.
Try to cover most of the skewer.
Mix pork fillet with soy, ginger, garlic, five spice, soft
sugar and hoisin. Cooked slowly wrapped in foil over the
cool side for about 15 minutes. Then unwrap and colour for
a further five minutes. Slice it thinly. This goes well
with the cabbage salad.
Finally, try to cook for longer and more slowly than you
think. Don’t keep moving the food about; just turn it once
or twice. Never buy food that appears to have come from
Mars. Remember – anything can be done on the barbecue. You
can get a solid iron plate for eggs, you can wrap fish cakes
in foil. Just use your imagination but, more importantly,
be safe.
Happy barbecue-ing.
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August
2007 - Paella
NOW I know we haven’t had much of a summer to talk
about so far and things may generally be a bit “down”,
so I thought that I should spread a little joy on how to
cook the perfect Spanish dish ... paella.
Without a doubt, this is for a party of people where everybody
can enjoy the dish evolving throughout. Just get a good
bottle of Rioja or better still, on a hot day, a jug of
Sangria.
Maybe the only limitation is that you will need a large
paella pan or a very big thick-bottomed frying pan. With
these measurements, I’m going to use ‘chef’s
handfuls’. |
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To Feed 6:
2 cupped handfuls of arborio rice
1 handful of squid rings
1 small onion
1 handful of clam meat
3 cloves of garlic (crushed)
1 handful of mussel meat
1 thinly sliced red & green pepper
2 handfuls of tiger prawns
Approximately 1 ltr of fish stock
3 shredded chicken legs
Pinch of paprika, salt and pepper
To Start:
Allow your pan to warm gently on the stove while softening
the onions, garlic and peppers.
Add the chicken and sear the edges.
Add the rice and coat with all of the “so far”
ingredients.
Add the stock in dribs and drabs, so the rice can absorb
it in its own time. Don’t rush this part.
When the rice is coming together, much like a risotto, it
is time to add the fish.
Stir until the fish has lost its crunch. Add any seasoning.
Turn off the heat. Open some more wine and ask your guests
to help themselves.
This is a very social and very easy dish, and involves little
preparation with a great end result. However, as with any
rice dish, it must be treated with the utmost respect; if
you forget the rice while it needs you, it will punish you.
Sangria: 1 bottle of rioja + half a bottle of soda water
+ 1 cut orange +some brandy + some grand marnier.
Cheers ... now where’s the cheese board?
Click here for printable version.
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September
2007 - Braised lamb shank with summer vegetables
IT was a recent trip to London’s fruit and vegetable
market last month that inspired this dish. Because of the
time of year, there was so much seasonal colour to meet
the eye from the fantastic salad leaves and fresh peas right
through to the purple broccoli and the baby carrots; what
a spectacle!
I know we have featured all sorts of cooking styles over
the past few months, but I thought a braised summery dish
would
work for those of us who try to make time to eat well and
who don’t mind a three-hour wait for dinner to be
ready. It’s just right for one of those lazy Sunday
afternoons watching the autumn sun disappear, with a glass
or two of your favourite tipple.
This dish would classically use veal shin. However, we will
be using either a lamb shoulder (for two) or lamb shank
(one per person). If you do chose to use veal, please ask
your butcher to source sustainable and ethical meat from
Britain. |
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This should feed
four hungry people.
4 lamb shanks
8 baby carrots
4 sticks of celery (peel the outside)
1 red onion
2 cloves of garlic
150g Swiss chard (or spinach)
4 baby leeks (or spring onions)
2 small cups of raw fresh peas
4 anchovy fillets
2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 1 sprig of rosemary
A half-bottle of drinkable dry white wine
Half a litre of chicken stock
Using a thick bottomed casserole pan, heat it gently on
top of the stove.
Dice the carrots, onion, garlic, celery and leeks very finely.
Roll the shanks in a little olive oil and brown them all
over in the pan. Add the diced vegetables and soften.
Pour in enough wine to cover the vegetables, add the same
amount of stock. Add the herbs with some salt and pepper,
and also the anchovy fillets. Add the peas.
Place the lid on the pan and cook at 175C (Gas mark 3/4)for
two-and-a-half hours.
Five minutes before the lamb has finished cooking, wilt
the chard or spinach in some salted water. This can go to
the plate with a little cracked pepper with one of the shanks.
Then correct the consistency of the broth remaining in the
pan. It should resemble a thick soup. Pour the vegetables
over the shank and serve to those hungry mouths.
Some of you may think that the anchovy is a strange thing
to add to a dish like this but it is an integral part of
the seasoning and will dissolve during the cooking process.
This adds a very Italian quirk to the dish.
Click here for printable version.
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October
2007 - Burned lemon tart
I USED to go to a restaurant called the Criterion in the
heart of the West End at Piccadilly Circus. I would order
lemon tart. It’s one of my great favourites –
in my opinion, the only way to finish a great meal.
It’s a real chef’s pudding. Any chef worthy
of his or her name will have a lemon tart on the menu. Christine
will have to take the credit for this recipe as she is my
pastry chef.
This dessert should be served on its own with no distractions;
if you need an accompaniment, please make it a sharp fruit
such as raspberry. Never insult it with cream. |
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The Pastry
(you will need a 20cm flan ring)
500g sieved plain flour
200g sieved icing sugar
250g diced butter
Two egg yolks
Grated zest of one lemon
Splash of water
MIX the flour and sugar, then gently rub in the diced butter
until it resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolks and
zest. Make it into a dough-like consistency (add water if
need be). Leave in the fridge for about one hour.
Roll out the pastry to about 1/2 cm and large enough to
fill your flan ring. Push the pastry well into the ring
and flute, but do not trim the top edges. Line the ring
with greaseproof paper and add some baking beans or rice
kernels.
This will need to baked blind for about 10 minutes in an
oven set at 180C (Gas mark 4). This is when you would trim
the edges of the pastry.
The Filling
Eight eggs
Three large lemons (200 ml juice required)
350g caster sugar
1 tbsp double cream
BREAK the eggs and mix with the sugar, then whisk until
smooth. Finely grate the lemons into the mix. Add the juice
and the cream, keeping it smooth.Pour the mixture into the
pastry case and cook for about 20-25 minutes at about 200C
(Gas mark 6).
The tart should be removed while it is still slightly soft
in the centre. Allow to stand and cool. Dust with some icing
sugar and caramelise with a blowtorch when serving. Always
serve it at room temperature.
I promise this will be one of the best desserts you will
have created.
Click here for printable version.
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November
2007 - Saddle of venison with a potato and squash boulangière
A SEASONAL dish, I feel, suitable for the bleak days of
November. However, there are still lots of little gems to
be
savoured; it just means a little more foraging than we may
be used to.
Shellfish are now in abundance. Also, after a cool wet summer
root vegetables are amazing this year. You may notice swede
are a richer yellow colour. The fruit crop is hitting record
levels as well, so take advantage of a slightly lower price
at the market stalls.
May I also point out to any mushroom fans out there that
this is the time to get the best selection of fresh wild
mushrooms. |
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Ingredients
(serves four)
500g venison saddle (have your butcher trim any fat or sinew)
Half butternut squash (peeled and thinly sliced)
3 King Edward potatoes (peeled and thinly sliced)
Half an onion finely chopped
250g kale (blanched and refreshed)
40g garlic butter
20g goose or duck fat (lard can be used )
500ml good chicken stock
200g mixed wild mushrooms
150g finely chopped onion, celery and carrot
Sprig thyme and 1 garlic clove
250ml red wine
Salt and pepper to taste
A pinch of nutmeg
Method
Mix the stock and garlic clove with the thyme leaves. Layer
the potato with the squash in a small but deep roasting
tin. Pour over the stock until just covered, season and
cover with tin foil and bake for about 1 hour (until soft)
175ºC /gas 3-4.
Meanwhile, season the meat and brown in a hot pan with a
little of the duck fat. Remove from the heat and allow to
rest with the remaining duck fat. With the garlic butter,
gently sauté the wild mushrooms then add the kale
with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Keep this warm.
The sauce can now be made by sweating the chopped onion
mix until golden brown in a little olive oil. Add the red
wine and reduce until the mix is just covered. It should
be slightly sticky. The meat should go into the oven for
about 10 more mins. At the same time the foil should come
off the potatoes and the butter put in blobs over the top
of them.
Return the potatoes to the oven with the meat (10 mins)
Gently warm the kale and mushroom mix. Strain the sauce
into a jug.
The meat will come out to rest while serving the potato
onto the plate with the kale and mushroom beside. Slice
the venison neatly onto the potato in a fan. Carefully spoon
the sauce around the dish and serve.
Top tip: This dish is all about the timing – be careful.
The potatoes can take up to an hour and a half while the
venison will only take about 20 mins (don’t forget
the resting times as it is very important). The kale and
mushroom will take 10 mins as will the sauce.
Good luck as this is a fantastic autumn dish.
Click here for printable version.
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December
2007 - Top Christmas Dinner Tips
CHRISTMAS is once again looming over us. Have you sent Auntie
Mabel her card? Have you done your overseas messages?
Are the children’s stockings full of what they want,
or what you want? But, worst of all, are we going to cater
for an entire
battalion of hungry soldiers when it’s no different
from a regular Sunday lunch with a couple more people.
I mean, it’s no real surprise to see the cars parked
half way back to Linton trying to get into Sainsbury’s.
“But they are only shut for one day!”
Anyway, don’t get me started on over consumerism.
I often hear about turkey being a bit dry or flavourless
and the sprouts
being either hard or dark green and smelly, so maybe a couple
of neat ideas for getting the Christmas meal sorted this
year without the worries will be useful.
First of all make sure that the turkey is of good provenance
and has been well looked after. A quality farm shop would
be a good bet. When preparing the turkey approx (6-7 kgs)
it should be lightly seasoned and turned onto its breast
for the first hour (200ºC Gas 4) Always be par-cooking
your potatoes in water at this stage. After the hour turn
the bird onto its back and return it to the oven, with the
potatoes in the meat juices that have collected thus far.
Season again.
This can go back for a further hour, but always check after
about 40 mins. A skewer can be inserted into the most dense
area, usually the thigh; if the juices run red it’s
not cooked, if the juices run clear then take the bird out
and leave to stand with a foil blanket. The potatoes should
be ready by now and placed in a dry tray and left in a cool
part of the
oven.
Meanwhile you have been doing the vegetables by way of blanching
the sprouts in boiling water until they become resistant
to a small knife. Then chill them in cold water. This can
be done the night before if you like. They can now be cut
into quarters and reheated in a frying pan with a little
seasoning, butter, a few tinned chestnuts and some cooked
bacon.
Make the gravy in the roasting tin that the turkey was cooked
in and strain it into a jug.
Hey presto. Beautifully simple moist roast turkey with tasty
roast potatoes, dynamic sprouts that actually taste nice
and all
with a homemade turkey gravy. Doing it this way should give
you the time to enjoy your Christmas day stress free, wondering
if that queue was any smaller. Probably not!
Merry Christmas.
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January
2008 - Roasted rabbit and orange soup
KEEPING to the seasonal theme I thought this would be one
for the more adventurous among us, and if you can get past
the “pet rabbit” issues then this is a fantastic
meal that can be made and enjoyed any time of the day served
with toasted bread.
Rabbit has been enjoyed by generations before us so I urge
you to give it a go. If you would prefer, ask your butcher
to take
all the meat from the rabbit as it will resemble chicken. |
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Ingredients
2 fresh rabbits (ask your butcher to clean and cut the rabbits
into 6 pieces)
2 medium sized carrots
1/2 head of celery
1 large onion
1/2 leek
2 bay leaves and sprig of fresh thyme
2.5 litres good chicken stock
50 gms plain flour
1/4 jar thick-cut orange marmalade
1 tablespoon butter
Method
First of all turn your oven on to 175˚C / gas mark
4. Place the rabbits into a roasting tin and roast until
golden
brown. You may use a little oil to help this process along.
It takes about 25-30 minutes.
While these are cooking; the vegetables can be roughly chopped.
Remove the rabbits from the oven and allow to cool. Take
a large cooking pot (one that can take 3.5 litres). With
the butter, cook the vegetables in the pot until golden
brown. Remove the vegetables and add the flour, enough to
make a paste. Cook until the flour and butter (roux) is
golden brown. Very gradually add the stock to the pot keeping
a low heat.
Finely chop the cooked vegetables (or blitz) and add to
the stock. Pick the rabbit meat from the bones and add to
the stock. Stir in the marmalade, as little or as much as
you wish. Now add the herbs and correct the seasoning.
This can be served straight away or cooled and kept in the
fridge for up to three days.
Click here for printable version.
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February
2008 - An Opulent Meal for Winter Cheer
ALL the doom and gloom and the weather being so depressing
is compounded by the fact that it is February again already.
The global credit crunch, and all the bad news from the
high street sale.... whatever next?
So a meal that will not cost a fortune but with echoes of
opulence would seem to be in order; one that can be done
quickly and effortlessly with the wow factor thrown in. |
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To start:
Smoked salmon and sea kale
Smoked salmon is widely available these days and very affordable,
and sea kale can be ordered from a good greengrocer; it
is similar to asparagus, just trim the ends off and blanch.
It is in season between January and March.
Once you have blanched the sea kale just toss in a little
lemony olive oil, lay 3 or 4 pieces on a plate then drape
as little or as much smoked salmon as you like over it.
Sprinkle with a little cracked pepper and some rocket leaves.
Easy!
Method
Lamb seems, so far, to have escaped the recent price increases
while the price of beef has rocketed due to the Brazilian
endemic foot and mouth situation.
Ask your butcher to “French trim” the lamb racks
and to separate them into three bones per portion.
Select whatever vegetables you prefer including potatoes.
My suggestion would be carrots, courgettes, tomatoes, red
onion, garlic and sweet peppers. Parboil about four new
potatoes per portion.
Roughly dice all of the vegetables and the potatoes then
roll them in a little olive oil with a sprig of rosemary
and thyme. Place the vegetables in a roasting tray. Lay
the lamb racks on top of the vegetables which have been
lightly seasoned. All of this preparation can be done in
advance.
Just before you prepare the salmon starter for your guests
you can, to coin a phrase, “Slam in the lamb”
with the vegetables obviously, and cook in the middle of
your oven at about 180° – 200°C, gas mark
6 or 350°-400°F. This will only take about 25 –
35 minutes.
You could have a sauce or gravy with this dish but why complicate
things? Maybe a little homemade mint sauce.
If I was going to take wine with this dish I would suggest
a very cold Riesling to cut through and yet complement the
salmon. Then a Pinot Noir from any region, but, Tasmanian
is my current favourite. This isn’t as overpowering
as some and will work well with the fattiness of the lovely
lamb cutlets.
Click here for printable version.
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March
2008 - Bouillabaisse - A Fishy Tale
DO you ever go to the shops or market and buy some fish
because it looked so good, then realise when you get it
home, that there is far too much for your needs? Do you
leave the extra bits in the fridge until they walk to the
bin? Do you cook it all with the good intention of a sandwich
filling, and never use it? Do you simply throw it away?
Does your cat benefit?
What I might suggest, as soon as you get home, is to cut
off the bits that you know you don’t need, then wrap
it in cling film and freeze it. This will ensure its freshness,
and you can do this every time you prepare various fish
dishes until you have several pieces of mixed fish (a seafood
cocktail).
Essentially this dish is taken from the fishing towns and
villages in and around the Provençal region in France.
It’s simple
and quick to prepare and delicious. I would also add that
it is not just about the fish in a “fish stew”
but the combination of the tomatoes, garlic, basil and saffron
(if used).
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Ingredients
500-750g mixed fish (tuna, cod, mackerel, salmon, whatever)
250g bag mixed pre-cooked seafood (prawns, mussels,
clams etc. or lobster !)
1/2 litre fish or chicken stock
1 good glass white wine
800g tinned chopped tomatoes
1 tablespoon tomato puree
4 cloves crushed garlic
1 large chopped onion
2 large chopped carrots
3 chopped sticks celery
1 medium chopped leek
2 bay leaves, a good handful of basil, a good handful of
chopped flat leaf parsley.
1/2 tsp saffron threads. These can be expensive so are not
always included.
Method
Firstly allow your fish to defrost overnight in the fridge.
Slowly sweat down all the chopped vegetables in a large
heavy bottomed saucepan. Add the wine, tomatoes, stock and
purée. Allow this to simmer slowly. Add the herbs
(save some parsley for the garnish). This should now be
taking you back to the south of France with its fabulous
flavours.
It’s now that you can add the fish (not the already
cooked shellfish). This will take about 10-15 mins at a
slow simmer.
Now you can add the seafood cocktail and cook for a further
2 mins.
Check for salt and pepper and serve into a terrine. Sprinkle
over the remaining parsley, then everybody around the table
can eat Provençal style with big chunks of white
bread rolls.
If you fancied a little drop of the old vine? Some may say
a powerful drop to match the strong flavours of the Provençal,
but I feel a refreshing wine would work very well and be
a perfect partner to the bouillabaisse. Try a Spanish Torres
Rosé, that’s my tip.
Click here for printable version.
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April
2008 - Roasted loin of lamb with spiced red wine
APRIL already and time to think of the wonderful offerings
that lamb can give us. Lamb can be a gourmet meal served
simply and quickly. The best end would be my favourite cut
as it can be trimmed of any excess fat and will cook rapidly.
There is a slightly Italian quirk to this dish using olives
and anchovies (don’t be afraid to use the anchovies
as you won,t
know they are even there). |
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Ingredients
Take 1 trimmed lamb loin
Cracked black pepper and sea salt
1 pinch of chilli flakes
About 6-8 chopped black olives
4-5finely chopped anchovy fillets
A good pinch of thyme, rosemary and oregano (mixed together)
1 large glass of red wine 250ml
Method
Place all the ingredients into a large freezer bag and gently
massage everything into the lamb. Allow to marinade for
20 minutes or so.
Heat a pan with a little oil and sear the lamb for about
2 minutes on each side. Transfer into a pre heated oven
fat side up at 190ºC/375ºF/ gas mark 5 for about10-12
minutes. Allow to rest for a further 5 minutes (resting
the meat is very important as it allows it to relax)
During the resting period put the pan back on the heat and
reduce most of the wine (I always like a little for tasting
purposes obviously). This in turn will start to resemble
a thin sauce with all the meat juices.
Slice the lamb into small medallions and arrange onto a
plate, the sauce can then be dressed onto the lamb. Serve
with a few warm new potatoes with lots of butter and fresh
spinach turned into them. Fantastico!!
Primitivo classico will give a soft yet spicy red wine to
compliment the gorgeous tender lamb with the spinach.
Click here for printable version.
Cheers and Bon Appetit!
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